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Build Update

Garage & Utility Area

Not the most glamorous area of the tiny house, granted, however the utility area has been started. Although we’re not yet ready to add anything in there, we needed to reinforce the walls to be able to support this floating “garage”. Having this framed means we are able to finish the insulation and wiring in this area. Eventually, this area will contain the on-demand hot water heater and the connections for both gas and water.

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Build Update

Sitting Area Lights

Lighting for the sitting area was added next. We need to complete the insulation and that means finishing the wiring on that end of the house. We went with 3″ dimmable LEDs with a soft white color. The backing in the picture is temporary. This plywood will be removed soon and replaced with the same shiplap we will be using for the walls and ceiling…

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Build Update

Insulation Beginning

Within each cavity we used several of the fire-rated Dow Froth Pak 650 kits… or, at least, we’re starting to. The first section we tackled was the kitchen area. Each stud pay is slightly over-filled. Once we are finished applying the foam, we will be shaving it down to ensure we have a full 3.5″ deep layer of insulation. Each inch of this stuff has an R-value of 6.6. Add in the R-value for 1/2″ OSB (0.51) and our final R-value, for the exterior walls and roof will be 23.61.

This is an in-process shot of the sitting area and wall behind the entertainment center. Like I said, we’re foaming every nook we can find.

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Flashing

Using a combination of Zip Tape and Liquid Flash (lots of it), we sealed the entire structure and flashed the window openings. The beauty of the Zip system is we now have a proper air and water barrier. Although there is debate in both directions, we even plan on going over each of the nail penetrations with a dab of Liquid Flash just to ensure there is _zero_ chance of air or moisture leaking in the house.

Before …

After …

Example of the Liquid Flash on the bathroom window …

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Build Update

Can Lights Installed

Running a 12″ wide length of 1/2″ ply down the center provides the perfect mounting area for the can lights as well as the natural transition from the ceiling pitch. The extra holes in the picture were cut in so we would have flexibility on the light placement while not having to worry about cutting in additional holes later, had we decided to change their position. While we did not end up using those extra holes, it was a good idea to have them there just in case. Also, we shaved off a few more pounds of materials from the overall weight.

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Build Update

Bathroom Framed

Bathroom framing was necessary to be able to drop in the outlet and switch boxes for the electrical. Since space is limited, I decided to not build on top of the raised floor, as one would normally do. Instead, we went straight down the subfloor and braced the wall up about 14.75″. This created a natural pass-through for the water and drain lines.

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Build Update

Prep for Can Lights

Work for the can lights is underway!

We started by breaking out the CNC again. We cut four 12×96″ wide strips of plywood and used the CNC to slice out six super-precise mounting holes in each:

Then, we cut sheets of 1″ rigid insulation for each by and a series of side spacers. The insulation will act as a “cap” to each light and allow us to safely spray foam the interior of the structure once the electrical is finished:

Finally, we installed each strip of plywood end-to-end, capped off every other spacer, and glued in the side bracing for the bays which will contain a light:

This is more of a preparation stage for the lights. Hopefully, we will have them wired in this week.

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Build Update

Raised Floor – Part A

Ironically, we reached a point with the electrical where we needed the raised floor to be in place before continuing. The floor contains a “chaise”, towards the end of the trailer, which we need to tack the Romex onto. So, before we continue with the electrical we will need to get the floor ready… or, at least, somewhat ready.

Unlike typical construction methods, I want the raised floor to have a bit of a “jewelry box” effect to it. We plan on using it for storage so it needs to look pleasing whenever it is open. This means no 2×4 construction!

We begin with breaking out the CNC and cutting some rather precise ovals in the center of what will become the floor “rib”:

… aaaaand, that first piece becomes a template for 12 other identical pieces. So, using the first piece we route out the others …

Every two pairs are matched and laminated together to be one 1.5″ thick “rib”…

Once the ribs are done, they need to be sanded to perfection. That means ensuring all of the edges are perfect …

… and then standing those pieces down to a nice smooth finish …

We then bring them back into the tiny house for the install …

Each end has a different profile than the middle ribs. This means more laminating:

The front end will greet you with a step (to be added later) so that needs a blank “rib” or end cap …

… where the rear end needs to close off a section to hide the beefy supports needed for the appliances …

Next, we apply some edge banding to the stringers and install them …

We apply some stain and polyurethane over the next several days …

And, finally, are ready to close up the floor (for now) so we may continue with the electrical …

Quite a bit remains for the floor. We will have a proper walkthrough once we’re done and, of course, will include that area.

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Build Update

Electrical has begun!

Ever have one of those processes that sounded enjoyable before you began? Well, electrical is one of them.

This is gonna be easy. Right? After all, we are starting with a clean slate…

Oh, and we have some cool toys to make things easier (these are great to work with, by the way)…

However, shortly after you get started, it feels like complete chaos has set in…

And, you need to call it quits before your brain shuts down…

However, with a bit of time and patience, it all seems to come together…

There is still much more do with with the electrical, but this is a solid start.

Oh, and on a side note, if you ever plan on installing joist hangers, electrical boxes, or hurricane straps, get yourself a palm nailer. They are worth their weight in gold…

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Build Update

Sealing Wheel Wells

The first stage in becoming water-tight is complete!

Spanning the wheel wells are two sets of large headers. These support the walls and prevent any of the weight from resting on the fenders. This created a need to encase those areas. This meant building two boxes to surround these areas:

Once they were built, we coated the inside and the lids with liquid rubber:

The finished product was a completely rubberized wheel well:

We will still be adding skirting on the outside of the wheel wells to prevent any major rain or weather from reaching these areas. This rubber is simply another level of protection in the event something makes it inside.